The Greek Trail, from Amendolea to Bova

The story

In the Amendolea valley people still speak Calabrian Greek, a language that arrived here in Byzantine times or perhaps earlier. At Amendolea the ruins of a Norman castle survive; at Bova, at the top of the village, those of another 11th-century castle. In 1847 the English painter and writer Edward Lear walked through these villages and described them in his travel journal: the Sentiero dell'Inglese (the Englishman's Trail), which passes through here, is named after him.

Why go

Because in half a day you cross one of the most secluded corners of Italy, with a language and a culture that have disappeared everywhere else.

Practical information

Start

Amendolea, a hamlet of Condofuri, below the castle ruins

Finish

Bova, historic centre

Best time

March–June and September–November

Parking

In Amendolea, along the hamlet's road.

By public transport

You need a car, or a lift back: the route is one way only.

Water

Bring at least two litres: much of the trail is in the sun.

Shade

Little: Mediterranean scrub, olive groves and stretches of exposed rock.

Huts and refreshments

None along the trail; bars and trattorias in Bova.

With children

Only with fit teenagers: almost 850 metres of ascent.