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Guide to Lesser Poland · Kraków, Wieliczka, Zakopane, the Pieniny and lesser-known places

Kraków, the Tatras and the wooden villages of the south.

The royal Kraków of Wawel and the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz, salt mines dug in the Middle Ages, Auschwitz, the Tatra mountains and the Dunajec river flowing through a gorge, but also the model town built by the communists, a village where women paint flowers on the houses and Easter palms thirty metres tall.

places on the map
33places on the map
hidden gems, with their stories
8hidden gems, with their stories
ready-made itineraries
6ready-made itineraries
towns and villages
12towns and villages
Why go

Five reasons to choose Lesser Poland

  1. Kraków

    One of the few great historic cities of Central Europe to come through the Second World War almost intact.

  2. Six UNESCO sites

    From central Kraków to the salt mines, from Auschwitz to the wooden churches: no other Polish region has so many.

  3. The mountains

    The Tatras, the Pieniny and the Beskids, with trails, glacial lakes, hot springs and ski slopes.

  4. Wood

    Churches, villages and villas built of wood, from the Zakopane style to the Lemko tserkvas.

  5. Remembrance

    The sites of Jewish history and the Holocaust, from Kazimierz to Auschwitz, presented with great care.

Places few people know

Eight places in Lesser Poland few people know

They don't top the most-visited lists, but each has a story to tell and a good reason for the detour.

★ History and art · Kraków and around

Nowa Huta

Kraków

A district of avenues, arcades and monumental buildings designed as the ideal socialist city, with an ark-shaped church built by the workers.

The story

In 1949 the communist government decided to build, next to Kraków, the city of intellectuals and the Church, a new town for the workers of a huge steelworks. Nowa Huta was laid out around a central square from which avenues radiate, with buildings in the Socialist Realist style. It was meant to be a town without churches, but the residents fought for years to have one: the Arka Pana, the Lord's Ark, was built with the volunteer labour of the faithful and consecrated in 1977 by Cardinal Karol Wojtyła.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ History and art · Tarnów and the east

Bochnia Salt Mine

Bochnia

The oldest salt mine in Poland, less famous than Wieliczka, with an underground train, a wooden slide and the chance to sleep underground.

The story

Rock salt was found in Bochnia in the mid-13th century, a few years before Wieliczka, and the mine was worked until 1990. The miners dug tunnels as deep as 468 metres and carved a large chapel in the salt dedicated to St Kinga, the Hungarian princess who, according to legend, brought salt to Poland by throwing her ring into a Hungarian mine. Since 2013 Bochnia has been part of the UNESCO site of the Royal Salt Mines, together with Wieliczka and the Saltworks Castle.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · Auschwitz, Wadowice and the Jura

Lanckorona

Lanckorona

A hilltop village with a sloping square surrounded by 19th-century wooden houses.

The story

Lanckorona received town rights in the 14th century from Casimir the Great, who built the castle on the hill. In 1771 the castle was defended by the Bar Confederates against Suvorov's Russian troops. In 1869 a fire destroyed the town, which was rebuilt with the single-storey wooden houses you see today, with their porches and overhanging roofs. For years now, in December, the "Angel in the Town" festival has filled the streets with painted angels and nativity scenes, and Lanckorona is known as the village of angels.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · Zakopane and the Tatras

Chochołów

Chochołów

A highlanders' village whose main street is lined with houses of thick fir logs, which the residents wash and scrub until they turn pale.

The story

In February 1846 the highlanders of Chochołów rose up against the Austrians, who then ruled Galicia, for Polish independence. The revolt lasted a few hours and was crushed, but the village has remained a patriotic symbol. The houses, built of whole logs squared with an axe, are among the best-preserved examples of Podhale architecture: every year, before Easter, many families wash them with soap and water.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · The Pieniny and the Sącz region

Stary Sącz

Stary Sącz

A small town with a cobbled square and low houses, grown up around one of the oldest convents in Poland.

The story

In 1280 Kinga, daughter of the King of Hungary and wife of the Polish prince Bolesław the Chaste, founded a convent of Poor Clares here, where she retired after her husband's death and died in 1292. The convent is still home to enclosed nuns. In 1999 John Paul II canonised St Kinga right here in Stary Sącz, before hundreds of thousands of the faithful, on an altar built in the meadows near the town.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ History and art · The Pieniny and the Sącz region

Wooden church of Kwiatoń

Uście Gorlickie

A 17th-century Greek Catholic wooden church, with stepped onion domes and an iconostasis, in an almost deserted valley of the Low Beskids.

The story

Until 1947 these valleys were home to the Lemkos, a mountain people of Greek Catholic or Orthodox faith. With Operation Vistula the communist government deported their families to the western regions of Poland, and many villages disappeared. The churches, the tserkvas, remained, some of them now used by Catholics: St Paraskeva's in Kwiatoń is considered the most harmonious and has been a UNESCO site since 2013, together with other wooden churches of the Carpathians in Poland and Ukraine.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · Tarnów and the east

Lipnica Murowana

Lipnica Murowana

A village with a square of arcaded houses and three old churches, famous for its Palm Sunday palms more than thirty metres tall.

The story

The village received town rights in 1326 from King Władysław the Elbow-high. The 15th-century wooden church of St Leonard is one of the UNESCO-listed wooden churches of southern Lesser Poland. Since 1958, on Palm Sunday, Lipnica has held a palm contest: bundles of willow branches, dried flowers and herbs tied around long poles, which families prepare for weeks and carry in procession. The tallest exceed thirty metres.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · Tarnów and the east

Zalipie

Olesno

The painted village: houses, wells, barns and even dog kennels are decorated with colourful flowers, inside and out.

The story

At the end of the 19th century the women of Zalipie began covering the soot stains in their chimneyless houses with lime drawings; then they moved on to flowers, with home-made paints and brushes of cow hair. The most famous painter was Felicja Curyłowa, whose house is now a museum. Since 1948 the village has held a competition, the "Painted Cottage", which still takes place every year on the weekend after Corpus Christi, when the houses are repainted.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
Itineraries

Six itineraries, one to three days

Kraków is the ideal base for day trips; for the Tatras and the Pieniny it is better to stay in the mountains.

3 days

Kraków and Wieliczka

The royal city, the Jewish quarter, the memory of the war and the salt mine.

Where to stay: KrakówStops: 7
  1. D1

    The Old Town and Wawel

    The Market Square and St Mary's in the morning, Wawel castle and cathedral in the afternoon, the evening along the Vistula.

  2. D2

    Kazimierz and Podgórze

    The synagogues of Kazimierz, then the museum in Schindler's factory and sunset from the Kościuszko Mound.

  3. D3

    Wieliczka and Nowa Huta

    The salt mine in the morning, the socialist town of Nowa Huta in the afternoon.

Full itinerary, day by day →

History

The region of kings

  1. 10th-11th century

    Wawel

    Kraków becomes one of the seats of the Piast princes and, from 1038, the capital of the Kingdom of Poland.

  2. 1241

    The Tatars

    The Mongol invasions destroy the city, which in 1257 is refounded with the great Market Square.

  3. 1364

    The university

    Casimir the Great founds the Kraków Academy, where Nicolaus Copernicus will study in the 15th century.

  4. 16th century

    The Renaissance

    Bona Sforza, wife of Sigismund the Old, brings Italian artists to Kraków who transform Wawel.

  5. 1596

    Warsaw

    Sigismund III Vasa moves the court to Warsaw; Kraków remains the city of coronations and royal tombs.

  6. 1795-1918

    Galicia

    With the partitions the region passes to Austria; autonomy in the late 19th century makes it the centre of Polish culture.

  7. 1939-1945

    The occupation

    Kraków becomes the capital of the German General Government; at Oświęcim the Nazis build Auschwitz.

  8. 1978

    The pope

    Karol Wojtyła, Archbishop of Kraków, is elected pope and takes the name John Paul II.

Tips

Before you go

The things that don't change from year to year. Opening hours, prices and bookings change often: always check them on the official websites.

When to go

Cities in summer, mountains in every season

May · JunKraków and the hills, meadows in bloom
Jul · AugTatras, Dunajec, festivals
Sep · Octautumn colours in the Tatras, fewer people
Dec · MarChristmas markets and skiing in Zakopane

Spring and early autumn are the best times for Kraków; in summer the Tatras are crowded, especially in July and August. In December Kraków's Christmas market is one of the finest in Poland, and from January to March you can ski in Zakopane.

Getting around

Trains for the cities, a car for the villages

Kraków has Balice international airport, linked to the centre by train. Frequent trains and buses run from Kraków to Wieliczka, Oświęcim, Tarnów and Zakopane.

For the Pieniny, the wooden churches and the villages a car is much more convenient; in summer the road to Zakopane is often congested.

Food and drink

What to try

  • Obwarzanek krakowski the braided bread ring with poppy or sesame seeds, sold from carts all over Kraków.
  • Oscypek the spindle-shaped smoked sheep's milk cheese of the Tatras, served grilled with cranberries.
  • Pierogi dumplings filled with potato and cheese, meat, sauerkraut and mushrooms, or berries.
  • Żurek sour soup of fermented rye flour, with sausage and egg, often served in a bread bowl.
  • Kwaśnica the sauerkraut soup of the Podhale highlanders, with pork ribs.
  • Kremówka the cream cake of Wadowice, tied to the memory of John Paul II.

All the PDO and PGI products and wines →

Traditions

Festivals not to miss

  • Holy Week in Kalwaria Holy Week · Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, the Passion performed in the streets.
  • Palm contest Palm Sunday · Lipnica Murowana.
  • Lajkonik Thursday after Corpus Christi · Kraków, a Tatar horseman dances through the streets.
  • Jewish Culture Festival late June-early July · Kazimierz, Kraków.
  • International Festival of Highland Folklore late August · Zakopane, folk groups from mountain regions all over the world.
  • Kraków Nativity Scene Contest early December · the szopki, colourful nativity scenes shaped like churches, in the Market Square.

The festival calendar for all of Poland →

FAQ

Questions travellers ask

What is there to see in Lesser Poland?
Kraków with Wawel and Kazimierz, the Wieliczka Salt Mine, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Wadowice, Zakopane and the Tatras with Morskie Oko, the Dunajec gorge in the Pieniny, the wooden churches and spa towns such as Krynica.
What are the lesser-known places in Lesser Poland?
Nowa Huta, the Bochnia mine, Lanckorona, Chochołów, Stary Sącz, the church of Kwiatoń, Lipnica Murowana and the painted village of Zalipie.
How many days do you need for Kraków?
Three days for the city with Wieliczka, four or five if you add Auschwitz and a trip to the Ojców valleys. For the Tatras you need at least another two or three days.
How do you get from Kraków to Auschwitz?
Oświęcim is about 70 kilometres from Kraków: you can get there by train or by the buses that leave from the MDA bus station, in about an hour and a half. Entry must be booked in advance on the museum's website.
What to eat in Lesser Poland?
Obwarzanek, pierogi, żurek, grilled oscypek, kwaśnica, placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes) and Wadowice kremówka.