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Guide to Molise · Termoli, Saepinum, upper Molise and little-known places

The region you don't expect, among Samnites, drove roads and bells.

The seaside old town of Termoli, the Roman city of Saepinum and the theatre of the Samnites, but also the oldest bell foundry in the world, the tooth of a child who lived six hundred thousand years ago, villages where people still speak an old form of Croatian and the village where two and a half metres of snow fell in a single day.

places on the map
16places on the map
hidden gems, with their stories
6hidden gems, with their stories
ready-made itineraries
3ready-made itineraries
towns and villages
9towns and villages
Why go

Five reasons to choose Molise

  1. Authentic and uncrowded

    One of the least visited regions in Italy, with traditions still very much alive.

  2. Samnites and Romans

    Pietrabbondante and Saepinum are among the most evocative ancient sites in the South.

  3. Ancient crafts

    Bells, bagpipes, knives and lace are still made by hand.

  4. Languages and minorities

    Croatian and Albanian villages have lived alongside Italian ones for five centuries.

  5. Mountains and sea close together

    From the beech forests of upper Molise to the beach at Termoli in an hour and a half.

Atlas

Map of Molise

16 hand-picked places: 9 towns and villages, 1 nature spots, 6 places of history and art. The gold star marks the hidden gems. Tap a point to open its card.

Places few people know

Six places in Molise few people know

They don't top the most-visited lists, but each has a story to tell and a good reason for the detour.

★ Town · Termoli and Lower Molise

Acquaviva Collecroce

Acquaviva Collecroce

A small hill village where the road signs are written in Italian and Croatian.

The story

In the early 16th century groups of refugees from the Dalmatian coast, fleeing the Ottoman advance, crossed the Adriatic and settled in the depopulated villages of Molise. In Acquaviva Collecroce, Montemitro and San Felice del Molise their descendants still speak «na-našu», an old Croatian cut off from its mother tongue for five centuries and enriched with Italian words. It is one of the smallest linguistic minorities in Europe.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ History and art · Isernia and upper Molise

Isernia La Pineta

Isernia

One of the most important Palaeolithic sites in Europe, on the edge of Isernia, with a museum built over the excavation.

The story

In 1978, during roadworks, thousands of bones of elephants, bison and rhinoceroses came to light along with stone tools: it was a camp of hunters who lived about six hundred thousand years ago. In 2014 a child's milk tooth was found among the finds, one of the oldest human remains in Italy. The museum lets you see the original ancient ground surface, just as prehistoric people left it.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ History and art · Isernia and upper Molise

San Vincenzo al Volturno

Castel San Vincenzo

The ruins of a great medieval abbey at the source of the Volturno, with a crypt frescoed in the 9th century.

The story

Founded in the early 8th century by three nobles from Benevento, by the 9th century it was one of the richest abbeys in Europe, a small town with hundreds of monks and workshops of glassmakers and goldsmiths. In 881 it was sacked and destroyed by the Saracens. The crypt of Abbot Epiphanius, frescoed between 824 and 842, holds one of the most important early medieval painting cycles in Italy.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · Isernia and upper Molise

Scapoli

Scapoli

A stone village in the Mainarde mountains, Italy's capital of the zampogna bagpipe, with an international museum devoted to the instrument.

The story

In this valley the zampogna has been made and played for centuries: the pipers set off in December to play the Christmas novenas in the cities, as far as Rome and Naples. The craft workshops still work the wood and skins the old way, and every year at the end of July the show and market brings together players and makers from all over the world.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · Isernia and upper Molise

Agnone and its bells

Agnone

A village in upper Molise, with churches and coppersmiths' workshops, where bells have been cast for seven hundred years.

The story

The Marinelli family has been casting bells in Agnone since at least the 14th century: it is considered one of the oldest family businesses in the world. In 1924 Pope Pius XI granted it the right to use the papal coat of arms, and bells have left here for the Vatican, for the great jubilees and for churches all over the world. In the foundry museum you can still see the work done by hand, with clay and wax moulds.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
★ Town · Isernia and upper Molise

Capracotta

Capracotta

One of the highest villages in the Apennines, at over 1,400 metres, surrounded by beech forests and cross-country ski trails.

The story

Capracotta is famous for its snow: on 5 March 2015 about two and a half metres fell in less than a day, an amount reported as a world record. One of the first ski clubs in southern Italy was founded here in 1914, and the village hosts the most important cross-country races in the Apennines. In summer the Apennine Flora Garden gathers the plants of the mountains of central and southern Italy.

Full page, why go and what's nearby →
Itineraries

Three itineraries, two to three days

Molise is small: in an hour and a half you go from the mountains to the sea. In a week you can see almost everything.

2 days

Termoli and Lower Molise

The old town by the sea, a city of the Frentani, the Croatian villages and a village reborn through street art.

Where to stay: TermoliStops: 4
  1. D1

    Termoli

    The old town, the castle and the trabucchi, with Termoli-style brodetto.

  2. D2

    The hinterland

    Larino in the morning, Acquaviva Collecroce for lunch, the murals of Civitacampomarano in the afternoon.

Full itinerary, day by day →

History

Land of the Samnites and the drove roads

  1. 600,000 years ago

    The first Europeans

    A group of Palaeolithic hunters lives at Isernia.

  2. 4th–1st century BC

    The Samnites

    The Samnite people fight three wars against Rome and build the sanctuary of Pietrabbondante.

  3. 8th–9th century

    The abbeys

    San Vincenzo al Volturno becomes one of the great monasteries of Europe.

  4. 15th–16th century

    Croatians and Albanians

    Refugees from the Balkans repopulate the villages of lower Molise.

  5. Centuries

    Transhumance

    The tratturi, wide grassy drove roads, carry the flocks between Abruzzo and Puglia: transhumance is on UNESCO's Intangible Heritage list.

  6. 1963

    The region

    Molise separates from Abruzzo and becomes Italy's youngest region.

Tips

Before you go

The things that don't change from year to year. Opening hours, prices and bookings change often: always check them on the official websites.

When to go

Every season has its festivals

May · JunCarrese, Misteri, meadows in bloom
Jul · Augthe sea at Termoli, bagpipes
DecemberAgnone's 'Ndocciata
Jan · Marsnow at Capracotta

Spring brings the great folk festivals, summer the sea and food festivals, December Agnone's 'Ndocciata. In winter upper Molise is under snow.

Getting around

You need a car

Termoli is on the Adriatic railway line; Campobasso and Isernia are connected to Naples and Rome by train and bus.

For the villages and archaeological sites a car is essential.

Food and drink

What to try

  • Cavatelli handmade pasta with pork sauce or turnip tops.
  • Brodetto alla termolese Termoli-style stew of Adriatic fish.
  • Pampanella spicy oven-roast pork from San Martino in Pensilis.
  • Caciocavallo and stracciata cheeses from Agnone and upper Molise.
  • Pezzata mutton slow-boiled for hours, a shepherds' dish.
  • Tintilia Molise's native red wine.

All the PDO and PGI products and wines →

Traditions

Festivals not to miss

  • 'Ndocciata 24 December · Agnone, a procession of huge torches.
  • Sagra dei Misteri Corpus Christi · Campobasso.
  • Carrese di San Pardo late May · Larino.
  • Bagpipe show late July · Scapoli.
  • Wheat Festival 26 July · Jelsi, carts decorated with ears of wheat.

The festival calendar for all of Italy →

FAQ

Questions travellers ask

What is there to see in Molise?
Termoli, Campobasso, Saepinum, the Samnite theatre at Pietrabbondante, Agnone, Isernia with the Palaeolithic museum, San Vincenzo al Volturno, Capracotta and the Matese.
What are the least-known places in Molise?
Acquaviva Collecroce and the Croatian villages, Isernia La Pineta, San Vincenzo al Volturno, Scapoli and its bagpipes, the Agnone bell foundry and Capracotta.
Does Molise really exist?
Yes: it is Italy's youngest region, created in 1963 by separating from Abruzzo. It has fewer than three hundred thousand inhabitants, which is also why it is one of the most authentic.
How many days do you need for Molise?
Four or five days are enough to see the coast, Campobasso, Saepinum and upper Molise.
What to eat in Molise?
Cavatelli, Termoli-style brodetto, pampanella, caciocavallo, stracciata and pezzata; to drink, Tintilia.